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The chicken will be a valuable animal to have in a disaster situation if you can manage it. Chickens have a multitude of uses, and a number of other benefits that hardly compare to potential problems that may come of having them.
<!--break-->
~The information provided here is a combination of online resources and my own knowledge and personal experience. Information provided by my own experience may not be entirely accurate; where ever possible, I have inserted my own advice in only as an aside, not as fact. If there are fallacies with my reports or your own experiences have given you better information than what I have provided, please let me know.~
Food Source
Chickens regularly lay eggs, at a rate of about once per day if they are taken care of properly. Having a few chickens would yield you a daily source of fresh food. If you have the means to cook, eggs are one of the easiest foods to cook as well as an ingredient in other foods; french toast, for example, or any sort of batter if you're comfortable enough to be baking cookies. Chicken eggs may be brown or white, depending on the color of the chicken.
Once your chicken no longer lays eggs or you can no longer humanely keep it alive, you can slaughter it and eat it. <a href="http://www.gatewaytovermont.com/thefarm/processing.htm">Here is a guide about how to do so.</a> You may also raise chickens only for meat, but that requires a different breed of bird. You can read up on the breeds which will suit your uses for the chicken <a href="http://www.helium.com/items/1245813-top-chicken-breeds-for-home-food-production-leghorn-cornish">here.</a> According to that source, Cornish breeds are good for meat chickens, while Leghorn breeds are good for egg laying.
Low Maintenance
Chickens require only chicken feed and water to survive. While it is a good idea to give chickens room to roam and move around, if it isn't possible, your chickens will likely live on. Chickens eat just about anything as well, such as bugs which will be pests in a garden, and you can even feed them table scraps. However, chickens should NOT eat the following:
<ul>
<li>Citrus fruits and peels (they can cause a drop in egg production)
<li>Bones
<li>Any large serving of meat, or meat that has gone bad
<li>Garlic and onion (eggs will taste like them)
<li>Avocado skins and pits
<li>Raw potato skins
<li>Long cut grass
<li>Chocolate
</ul>
[1]
Other Uses
Chickens are scavengers of bugs and other pests, and will go great with a garden as they keep it pest-free while producing a fertilizer for your crops. They are also great for compost heaps, their excrement and eggshells in particular. Chickens oddly enough make good pets; they are affectionate animals if cared for properly. Depending on the breed, most chickens can live from five to seven years. In general, egg laying chicken breeds live longer while chickens bred for meat will be slaughtered after only a few weeks. If you have egg laying chickens, they can make a lasting, useful pet. They can be bred easily as well, but that also requires a more complicated set up. This will be covered later in the article.
Potential Issues
Like many other organisms, chickens can become sick. A sick chicken will pose a problem for both the other birds in the flock, and to the chicken's productivity. If your chickens display any of the following symptoms, it may be ill:
<ul>
<li>coughing
<li>wheezing
<li>labored breathing
<li>warts/scabs
<li>swollen joints
<li>loss of feathers
<li>reduced egg production
<li>thin egg shells
<li>fever
<li>abscesses or open wounds
<li>paralysis
<li>twisting of neck/head
<li>discharge from nose/mouth
<li>diarrhea/blood in stool
<li>not eating/drinking
<li>weight loss
<li>retarded growth
<li>lack of coordination
<li>enlarged abdomen
</ul>
When dealing with a sick bird, it is best to isolate it from the rest of the flock immediately in order to halt the spread of infection. Most diseases that chickens may be infected with which can be treated at all will use antibiotics. [2] There is a full list of common poultry diseases <a href="http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ps044">here.</a>
Chickens do make noise, however the amount is minimal overall. Chickens will actually have longer, drawn out clucks when they are happy, so that's a good way to monitor how your birds are doing.
If you are in a confined area, you may have to deal with their smell, but a closed(lightly insulated if necessary) door is usually enough to stop the smell. Depending on where you keep them, you may have to clean out their area once in awhile. If they are allowed to roam free on an enclosed area(natural or otherwise), they likely won't need to be cleaned up after. But, if they are kept in something like a dog crate, that area will become filthy and will need to be cleaned out every few days. I recommend using wood shavings in the dog crate scenario as it makes a comfy bed while being easy to clean. However, that is the only method I have worked with so there may be better options out there.
The Coop
Egg layers and meat chickens alike need a coop as a shelter, but the type of coop needed will depend on the kind of chicken you have. Chickens being raised for meat need only a coop which will provide shelter. Egg laying chickens need a more specific layout. With both shelters, they will need to:
<ul>
<li>Be Secure- Nothing in or out that shouldn't be. If they're in an open, outdoor area, wild predators may be an issue. If so, the coop must be made secure from both burrowing and flying predators, easily done by using mesh wire to make a "roof" and burying the sides of the coop a few inches into the ground. Predators include raccoons, foxes, wolves, coyotes and hawks. Being simplistic, a dog crate could suffice, but there could be an issue with using a closed cage.
<li>Be sanitary- Using that plastic dog crate keeps air flow pretty low and the buildup of smell, filth, and germs high. A metal wireframe cage would provide more airflow, but it will still need to be cleaned out. The ideal shelter is easy to clean, or doesn't need to be cleaned at all. If you have the coop outside, this requires little to no effort; nature will take its course and you will only have to remember to give them food and water while you collect the eggs or wait to slaughter them. However, if you are keeping them in a smaller area, they will likely need more maintenance. Depending on what kind of bedding you have access to, this may be more or less difficult. Wood shavings provide comfort and require dumping out only every few weeks; in the meantime, you can use a pitchfork for minor cleaning jobs. If wood shavings are not an option, torn up newspaper will suffice as well, but be warned that you will have to clean out the area far more often. There are other options for bedding as well, but remember that bedding must always be comfortable.
<li>Be Comfortable- Chickens can tolerate the cold, but drafts are difficult for them. If necessary, a blanket can be put over an open coop to block incoming drafts. This will also give the chickens a sense of security, which is also important. If egg layers aren't comfortable and don't have a safe place to lay their eggs, they won't lay.
</ul>
Daily Care
<ul>
<li>Make sure chickens have fresh food and water each day. Chickens won't overeat, so there's no need to worry about how much to feed them. Water is especially important; egg laying uses plenty of water, and dehydrated birds in general can become sick, fast.
<li>Egg layers will usually lay daily, around the same time each day. Get eggs daily to ensure they're at their freshest. Chickens have been known to eat eggs as well; removing them prevents this habit from forming at all.
<li>Watch chicken behavior for any abnormalities. Catching problems early is vital.
</ul>
Cleaning Your Chicken
Chickens generally clean themselves, but there is a method of getting them clean using soap and water:
<ol>
<li>Preparation: Ready three tubs; one full of soap and warm water, one with normal water, and the third containing vinegar and water(2 cups of vinegar per gallon of water). The tubs should be narrow enough to prevent too much movement, but deep enough to submerge the chicken completely below the head without water spilling out. Trash cans or similar containers work well.
<li>Bathing: Gently dunk the chicken into the first tub; they may panic, but keep a firm grip while dunking them in and out of the water. Do not scrub; this will break feathers unless done gently in the natural direction of the feathers. In the second tub, the goal is to get all the soap off the chicken. In the third tub, the goal is to simply get the vinegar water all over their body.
<li>Drying: If it is warm enough, you can simply wrap the chicken in a towel and press gently to allow water absorption. If it is cold, it may be necessary to use a blow dryer or some other method of keeping the chicken warm until it is dry. Remember, wet and cold do not mix well.
</ol>[3]
Dust Baths
Usually, it won't be necessary to bathe your chicken in water at all. You need only to be sure they have either dirt or a dust mixture* in which they can roll around in. This will prevent unwanted creatures from inhabiting the skin on chickens.
*If chickens are indoors with no way to dig a hole in dirt, you can create a dust mixture using ashes, sand, miscellaneous dirts, etc.[1]
Cleaning the Chicken to Prepare to Eat It
(Will provide link to another article when written)
Climate Issues
Cold winters won't be a huge issue, as long as you have the proper breed for your area. If buying chicks locally, you're most likely going to be getting the right breed. Heating the coop is probably not a good idea, as chickens adapt to the cold. No sense in using unnecessary energy. Simply prevent drafts and be sure the water source does not freeze. Extreme heat is a risk; fresh water is very important, as well as providing adequate ventilation and shade for their area. Stress from heat may decrease egg production, but this is likely only temporary.
Handling a chicken
Depending on the setup used, you may find yourself handling and picking up your chickens here and there. There is a right way and a wrong way to do it. Your goal is to secure the wings so that they can't be flapping while you're holding the chicken; the wings can easily break. After you've secured the wings with one or both hands, you can cradle the chicken under your arm to keep a snug grip on it. Think of it like a football.
Note that one is only likely going to be breeding chickens if prepared to breed them; remember that it can't happen without a rooster, which is only useful for breeding and eating. Be warned that breeding demands a more complicated setup and creates a different environment among your flock. However, breeding ensures multiple generations of chickens and the ability to replenish your flock. Just make sure you've got the space for the new arrivals. The process goes something like this:
<ol>
<li>Introduce the rooster. You'll only want one in at a time with the flock of hens, otherwise competing roosters may fight.
<li>Let nature take its course. Depending on how much space you have, you may want to monitor the situation to ensure too many hens are not becoming impregnated.
<li>In the interest of saving electricity, it is probably a better idea to let the hens rear the eggs themselves. However, if you have the means to support an incubator, take the eggs upon being laid. Otherwise, watch for hens to become "broody"(feathers are puffed up, hen refuses to leave nest, and is very defensive when anything comes near). A broody hen likely means the eggs are fertilized.
<li>Ensure there is a proper environment for broody hens. This means nests have plenty of space between one another, there is constant warmth with no drafts, and hens have plenty of food and water. Hens may neglect their eggs; you may attempt to put them under another broody hen, but it is possible she too will reject the eggs. Sometimes there is nothing you can do about it; if you don't have an incubator, that's simply a chicken lost.
<li>Wait about 21 days for the eggs to hatch.
<li>And behold, you have baby chicks. Continue to watch them as they grow; mother hens have been known to eat their own chicks and other chicks and chickens may peck at one another. However, this becomes less of a problem as more space is given for the chickens to roam.
</ol>
[6]
Caring for Baby Chicks
For the most part, caring for baby chicks is just like caring for the adult chickens. However, there are a few special considerations:
<ul>
<li>Keep them warm- This is where electricity needs may come into play. Baby chicks need a temperature of about 95 degrees for the first week they are alive. Then the amount of heat needed drops about five degrees each week until they can be at the normal outside temperature. It is recommended to use a red heat lamp as it is more comfortable for the chicks. Regardless, the bulb should be about 250 watts. Watch the chicks to see how warm or cold they are. If they're huddled together in the center of the heat source, they're too cold. If they're avoiding the heat source and each other, they're too hot.
<li>Special Feed Needs- Chicks don't eat what full grown chickens eat; if possible, they should be given a starter feed(the length of time they eat it until switching to adult feed depends on the brand). Chicks can eat various scraps as well, but that can't be their full diet; they need a balanced feed to regularly eat. You can make your own chick feed with this recipe:
<li>Living Space- Be sure there is enough space for the chicks to grow; remember, if chickens are crowded among each other, they may peck at one another. For the first four to five weeks, chicks should be kept indoors, being kept warm. After that, they may freely roam outside(provided the weather is warm).
</ul>
[1]
This part of the guide deals with issues that may come with living outside of society as we know it. While it will be more difficult to do, it will not be impossible, provided there is proper set-up. Be warned that if the situation does not allow for chickens, it would be unwise to attempt to keep and care for them.
Resources
Resources may be hard to come by, and if you aren't prepared to take care of chickens you may find it hard to do so. Whether lacking in space, food, water, or the ability to provide comfort, any one is likely to result in problems.
Food
The amount of food consumed depends on the environment and breed of your chicken, but it is expected that one chicken of a lighter breed will eat about 80 to 90 pounds of feed per year. It is likely that less will be consumed if the chicken has other food sources, and more than just feed is required for a balanced diet. If the chickens are kept outdoors, there is little to worry about. If not, supplement them with table scraps(they can eat stale bread and sour milk), bugs, and crushed eggshells for calcium.[4] You can also mix up your own feed with corn, soybeans, oats, alfalfa, etc. An entire list of feed recipes is available <a href="http://www.lionsgrip.com/recipes.html">here.</a>
Water
Clean water is vital, even more so in hotter weather, as consumption increases when the weather is hot. Cool water is important; if the water is too warm, chickens will not drink as much and their health may suffer. In cool weather, twenty hens will drink about a gallon of water each day, so plan to have about one half pint of water per day per chicken.[5]
Space/Comfort
An uncomfortable or cramped area will be problematic, especially for egg laying chickens. Egg layers need to feel secure and safe in order to lay. Ideally, there is an area in which chickens can roam and a smaller, more secure area in which they can go for shelter; a fenced in area around a dog house, for example. However, space may be hard to come by in a cramped shelter. If this is the case, cleaning and providing adequate ventilation will become far more important to keep chickens healthy, and to keep your shelter from smelling unpleasant.
Security
Being on the run or in a non-secure location are quite unfriendly conditions to a bird. As mentioned previously, if hens don't feel safe and secure, they won't lay eggs, and a stressed chicken is more likely to lash out at other birds or become ill. On the other hand, if you needed a quick distraction against an attacker, you could toss the chicken at them. You might lose the bird, but if it means saving yourself, it's worth it.
You aren't likely to just pick up a few chickens somewhere after a disaster
It's much more likely that you'll have chickens during the apocalypse only if you had chickens beforehand. Most chickens are ordered into barn animal feed shops, sometimes specially. Regardless of where they are, unprotected and uncared for chickens are not likely to last long on their own. Developing a bond with the chicken is also important to keep handling the bird an easy and enjoyable experience. However, be warned that this same bond may cause you to do something detrimental to your survival; never let that happen.
Chickens are one of the most economical animals to have. Relatively low maintenance, a quirky pet, and a reliable food source. If you are holed up in a base and have the means to support these animals, there's little reason not to do so. This author can say that my chickens will absolutely be a part of my apocalyptic survival plans. If you're interested in getting chickens of your own, look for a local livestock feed store; this will be the easiest place to obtain chicks, feed, and other supplies you will need. I'd recommend building a coop on your own as opposed to buying one as their needs will depend on the environment your chickens will be inhabiting. Having a spare dog crate or something similar around for moving or keeping chickens is also advised, as this is a likely need whether cleaning the coop or keeping them safe from weather or predators.
Sources:
[1]<a href="http://www.mypetchicken.com/backyard-chickens/chicken-care/chapter-1-why-chickens.aspx">The My Pet Chicken Guide to Chicken Care</a>
[2]<a href="http://urbanchickens.org/chicken-illness-injury-and-disease">Chicken Illness, Injury and Disease</a>
[3]<a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Wash-a-Chicken">How to Wash a Chicken</a>
[4]<a href="http://www.lionsgrip.com/feedinstruc.html">Chicken Feed: Feeding Instructions</a>
[5]<a href="http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=G8350>Managing a Family Chicken Flock</a>
[6]<a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Breed-Chickens">How to Breed Chickens - wikiHow</a>
The chicken will be a valuable animal to have in a disaster situation if you can manage it. Chickens have a multitude of uses, and a number of other benefits that hardly compare to potential problems that may come of having them.
<!--break-->
~The information provided here is a combination of online resources and my own knowledge and personal experience. Information provided by my own experience may not be entirely accurate; where ever possible, I have inserted my own advice in only as an aside, not as fact. If there are fallacies with my reports or your own experiences have given you better information than what I have provided, please let me know.~
The Benefits of Chickens
Food Source
Chickens regularly lay eggs, at a rate of about once per day if they are taken care of properly. Having a few chickens would yield you a daily source of fresh food. If you have the means to cook, eggs are one of the easiest foods to cook as well as an ingredient in other foods; french toast, for example, or any sort of batter if you're comfortable enough to be baking cookies. Chicken eggs may be brown or white, depending on the color of the chicken.
Once your chicken no longer lays eggs or you can no longer humanely keep it alive, you can slaughter it and eat it. <a href="http://www.gatewaytovermont.com/thefarm/processing.htm">Here is a guide about how to do so.</a> You may also raise chickens only for meat, but that requires a different breed of bird. You can read up on the breeds which will suit your uses for the chicken <a href="http://www.helium.com/items/1245813-top-chicken-breeds-for-home-food-production-leghorn-cornish">here.</a> According to that source, Cornish breeds are good for meat chickens, while Leghorn breeds are good for egg laying.
Low Maintenance
Chickens require only chicken feed and water to survive. While it is a good idea to give chickens room to roam and move around, if it isn't possible, your chickens will likely live on. Chickens eat just about anything as well, such as bugs which will be pests in a garden, and you can even feed them table scraps. However, chickens should NOT eat the following:
<ul>
<li>Citrus fruits and peels (they can cause a drop in egg production)
<li>Bones
<li>Any large serving of meat, or meat that has gone bad
<li>Garlic and onion (eggs will taste like them)
<li>Avocado skins and pits
<li>Raw potato skins
<li>Long cut grass
<li>Chocolate
</ul>
[1]
Other Uses
Chickens are scavengers of bugs and other pests, and will go great with a garden as they keep it pest-free while producing a fertilizer for your crops. They are also great for compost heaps, their excrement and eggshells in particular. Chickens oddly enough make good pets; they are affectionate animals if cared for properly. Depending on the breed, most chickens can live from five to seven years. In general, egg laying chicken breeds live longer while chickens bred for meat will be slaughtered after only a few weeks. If you have egg laying chickens, they can make a lasting, useful pet. They can be bred easily as well, but that also requires a more complicated set up. This will be covered later in the article.
Potential Issues
Like many other organisms, chickens can become sick. A sick chicken will pose a problem for both the other birds in the flock, and to the chicken's productivity. If your chickens display any of the following symptoms, it may be ill:
<ul>
<li>coughing
<li>wheezing
<li>labored breathing
<li>warts/scabs
<li>swollen joints
<li>loss of feathers
<li>reduced egg production
<li>thin egg shells
<li>fever
<li>abscesses or open wounds
<li>paralysis
<li>twisting of neck/head
<li>discharge from nose/mouth
<li>diarrhea/blood in stool
<li>not eating/drinking
<li>weight loss
<li>retarded growth
<li>lack of coordination
<li>enlarged abdomen
</ul>
When dealing with a sick bird, it is best to isolate it from the rest of the flock immediately in order to halt the spread of infection. Most diseases that chickens may be infected with which can be treated at all will use antibiotics. [2] There is a full list of common poultry diseases <a href="http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ps044">here.</a>
Chickens do make noise, however the amount is minimal overall. Chickens will actually have longer, drawn out clucks when they are happy, so that's a good way to monitor how your birds are doing.
If you are in a confined area, you may have to deal with their smell, but a closed(lightly insulated if necessary) door is usually enough to stop the smell. Depending on where you keep them, you may have to clean out their area once in awhile. If they are allowed to roam free on an enclosed area(natural or otherwise), they likely won't need to be cleaned up after. But, if they are kept in something like a dog crate, that area will become filthy and will need to be cleaned out every few days. I recommend using wood shavings in the dog crate scenario as it makes a comfy bed while being easy to clean. However, that is the only method I have worked with so there may be better options out there.
Chicken Care
The Coop
Egg layers and meat chickens alike need a coop as a shelter, but the type of coop needed will depend on the kind of chicken you have. Chickens being raised for meat need only a coop which will provide shelter. Egg laying chickens need a more specific layout. With both shelters, they will need to:
<ul>
<li>Be Secure- Nothing in or out that shouldn't be. If they're in an open, outdoor area, wild predators may be an issue. If so, the coop must be made secure from both burrowing and flying predators, easily done by using mesh wire to make a "roof" and burying the sides of the coop a few inches into the ground. Predators include raccoons, foxes, wolves, coyotes and hawks. Being simplistic, a dog crate could suffice, but there could be an issue with using a closed cage.
<li>Be sanitary- Using that plastic dog crate keeps air flow pretty low and the buildup of smell, filth, and germs high. A metal wireframe cage would provide more airflow, but it will still need to be cleaned out. The ideal shelter is easy to clean, or doesn't need to be cleaned at all. If you have the coop outside, this requires little to no effort; nature will take its course and you will only have to remember to give them food and water while you collect the eggs or wait to slaughter them. However, if you are keeping them in a smaller area, they will likely need more maintenance. Depending on what kind of bedding you have access to, this may be more or less difficult. Wood shavings provide comfort and require dumping out only every few weeks; in the meantime, you can use a pitchfork for minor cleaning jobs. If wood shavings are not an option, torn up newspaper will suffice as well, but be warned that you will have to clean out the area far more often. There are other options for bedding as well, but remember that bedding must always be comfortable.
<li>Be Comfortable- Chickens can tolerate the cold, but drafts are difficult for them. If necessary, a blanket can be put over an open coop to block incoming drafts. This will also give the chickens a sense of security, which is also important. If egg layers aren't comfortable and don't have a safe place to lay their eggs, they won't lay.
</ul>
Daily Care
<ul>
<li>Make sure chickens have fresh food and water each day. Chickens won't overeat, so there's no need to worry about how much to feed them. Water is especially important; egg laying uses plenty of water, and dehydrated birds in general can become sick, fast.
<li>Egg layers will usually lay daily, around the same time each day. Get eggs daily to ensure they're at their freshest. Chickens have been known to eat eggs as well; removing them prevents this habit from forming at all.
<li>Watch chicken behavior for any abnormalities. Catching problems early is vital.
</ul>
Cleaning Your Chicken
Chickens generally clean themselves, but there is a method of getting them clean using soap and water:
<ol>
<li>Preparation: Ready three tubs; one full of soap and warm water, one with normal water, and the third containing vinegar and water(2 cups of vinegar per gallon of water). The tubs should be narrow enough to prevent too much movement, but deep enough to submerge the chicken completely below the head without water spilling out. Trash cans or similar containers work well.
<li>Bathing: Gently dunk the chicken into the first tub; they may panic, but keep a firm grip while dunking them in and out of the water. Do not scrub; this will break feathers unless done gently in the natural direction of the feathers. In the second tub, the goal is to get all the soap off the chicken. In the third tub, the goal is to simply get the vinegar water all over their body.
<li>Drying: If it is warm enough, you can simply wrap the chicken in a towel and press gently to allow water absorption. If it is cold, it may be necessary to use a blow dryer or some other method of keeping the chicken warm until it is dry. Remember, wet and cold do not mix well.
</ol>[3]
Dust Baths
Usually, it won't be necessary to bathe your chicken in water at all. You need only to be sure they have either dirt or a dust mixture* in which they can roll around in. This will prevent unwanted creatures from inhabiting the skin on chickens.
*If chickens are indoors with no way to dig a hole in dirt, you can create a dust mixture using ashes, sand, miscellaneous dirts, etc.[1]
Cleaning the Chicken to Prepare to Eat It
(Will provide link to another article when written)
Climate Issues
Cold winters won't be a huge issue, as long as you have the proper breed for your area. If buying chicks locally, you're most likely going to be getting the right breed. Heating the coop is probably not a good idea, as chickens adapt to the cold. No sense in using unnecessary energy. Simply prevent drafts and be sure the water source does not freeze. Extreme heat is a risk; fresh water is very important, as well as providing adequate ventilation and shade for their area. Stress from heat may decrease egg production, but this is likely only temporary.
Handling a chicken
Depending on the setup used, you may find yourself handling and picking up your chickens here and there. There is a right way and a wrong way to do it. Your goal is to secure the wings so that they can't be flapping while you're holding the chicken; the wings can easily break. After you've secured the wings with one or both hands, you can cradle the chicken under your arm to keep a snug grip on it. Think of it like a football.
Breeding Chickens
Note that one is only likely going to be breeding chickens if prepared to breed them; remember that it can't happen without a rooster, which is only useful for breeding and eating. Be warned that breeding demands a more complicated setup and creates a different environment among your flock. However, breeding ensures multiple generations of chickens and the ability to replenish your flock. Just make sure you've got the space for the new arrivals. The process goes something like this:
<ol>
<li>Introduce the rooster. You'll only want one in at a time with the flock of hens, otherwise competing roosters may fight.
<li>Let nature take its course. Depending on how much space you have, you may want to monitor the situation to ensure too many hens are not becoming impregnated.
<li>In the interest of saving electricity, it is probably a better idea to let the hens rear the eggs themselves. However, if you have the means to support an incubator, take the eggs upon being laid. Otherwise, watch for hens to become "broody"(feathers are puffed up, hen refuses to leave nest, and is very defensive when anything comes near). A broody hen likely means the eggs are fertilized.
<li>Ensure there is a proper environment for broody hens. This means nests have plenty of space between one another, there is constant warmth with no drafts, and hens have plenty of food and water. Hens may neglect their eggs; you may attempt to put them under another broody hen, but it is possible she too will reject the eggs. Sometimes there is nothing you can do about it; if you don't have an incubator, that's simply a chicken lost.
<li>Wait about 21 days for the eggs to hatch.
<li>And behold, you have baby chicks. Continue to watch them as they grow; mother hens have been known to eat their own chicks and other chicks and chickens may peck at one another. However, this becomes less of a problem as more space is given for the chickens to roam.
</ol>
[6]
Caring for Baby Chicks
For the most part, caring for baby chicks is just like caring for the adult chickens. However, there are a few special considerations:
<ul>
<li>Keep them warm- This is where electricity needs may come into play. Baby chicks need a temperature of about 95 degrees for the first week they are alive. Then the amount of heat needed drops about five degrees each week until they can be at the normal outside temperature. It is recommended to use a red heat lamp as it is more comfortable for the chicks. Regardless, the bulb should be about 250 watts. Watch the chicks to see how warm or cold they are. If they're huddled together in the center of the heat source, they're too cold. If they're avoiding the heat source and each other, they're too hot.
<li>Special Feed Needs- Chicks don't eat what full grown chickens eat; if possible, they should be given a starter feed(the length of time they eat it until switching to adult feed depends on the brand). Chicks can eat various scraps as well, but that can't be their full diet; they need a balanced feed to regularly eat. You can make your own chick feed with this recipe:
Recipe
6 parts corn
6 parts wheat
2 parts oats
1 part alfalfa
1 part soy
1 part milk
2 parts fish meal
1/2 part egg shell
1/10 part salt
1/20 part cod liver oil (only when not exposed to sunlight)
2. Mix and grind well into mash. You can also add tiny pieces of dark green lettuce and other veggies, small pieces of grapes or apple, or ground sprouts such as beans or alfalfa sprouts.
3. Feed to the mash to chicks for the first 6 to 8 weeks of life. Encourage the chicks to get out in the sun and on the grass if the weather permits after the first two weeks of life.
6 parts corn
6 parts wheat
2 parts oats
1 part alfalfa
1 part soy
1 part milk
2 parts fish meal
1/2 part egg shell
1/10 part salt
1/20 part cod liver oil (only when not exposed to sunlight)
2. Mix and grind well into mash. You can also add tiny pieces of dark green lettuce and other veggies, small pieces of grapes or apple, or ground sprouts such as beans or alfalfa sprouts.
3. Feed to the mash to chicks for the first 6 to 8 weeks of life. Encourage the chicks to get out in the sun and on the grass if the weather permits after the first two weeks of life.
<li>Living Space- Be sure there is enough space for the chicks to grow; remember, if chickens are crowded among each other, they may peck at one another. For the first four to five weeks, chicks should be kept indoors, being kept warm. After that, they may freely roam outside(provided the weather is warm).
</ul>
[1]
Issues Specific to a Disaster/Apocalypse
This part of the guide deals with issues that may come with living outside of society as we know it. While it will be more difficult to do, it will not be impossible, provided there is proper set-up. Be warned that if the situation does not allow for chickens, it would be unwise to attempt to keep and care for them.
Resources
Resources may be hard to come by, and if you aren't prepared to take care of chickens you may find it hard to do so. Whether lacking in space, food, water, or the ability to provide comfort, any one is likely to result in problems.
Food
The amount of food consumed depends on the environment and breed of your chicken, but it is expected that one chicken of a lighter breed will eat about 80 to 90 pounds of feed per year. It is likely that less will be consumed if the chicken has other food sources, and more than just feed is required for a balanced diet. If the chickens are kept outdoors, there is little to worry about. If not, supplement them with table scraps(they can eat stale bread and sour milk), bugs, and crushed eggshells for calcium.[4] You can also mix up your own feed with corn, soybeans, oats, alfalfa, etc. An entire list of feed recipes is available <a href="http://www.lionsgrip.com/recipes.html">here.</a>
Water
Clean water is vital, even more so in hotter weather, as consumption increases when the weather is hot. Cool water is important; if the water is too warm, chickens will not drink as much and their health may suffer. In cool weather, twenty hens will drink about a gallon of water each day, so plan to have about one half pint of water per day per chicken.[5]
Space/Comfort
An uncomfortable or cramped area will be problematic, especially for egg laying chickens. Egg layers need to feel secure and safe in order to lay. Ideally, there is an area in which chickens can roam and a smaller, more secure area in which they can go for shelter; a fenced in area around a dog house, for example. However, space may be hard to come by in a cramped shelter. If this is the case, cleaning and providing adequate ventilation will become far more important to keep chickens healthy, and to keep your shelter from smelling unpleasant.
Security
Being on the run or in a non-secure location are quite unfriendly conditions to a bird. As mentioned previously, if hens don't feel safe and secure, they won't lay eggs, and a stressed chicken is more likely to lash out at other birds or become ill. On the other hand, if you needed a quick distraction against an attacker, you could toss the chicken at them. You might lose the bird, but if it means saving yourself, it's worth it.
You aren't likely to just pick up a few chickens somewhere after a disaster
It's much more likely that you'll have chickens during the apocalypse only if you had chickens beforehand. Most chickens are ordered into barn animal feed shops, sometimes specially. Regardless of where they are, unprotected and uncared for chickens are not likely to last long on their own. Developing a bond with the chicken is also important to keep handling the bird an easy and enjoyable experience. However, be warned that this same bond may cause you to do something detrimental to your survival; never let that happen.
Overview
Chickens are one of the most economical animals to have. Relatively low maintenance, a quirky pet, and a reliable food source. If you are holed up in a base and have the means to support these animals, there's little reason not to do so. This author can say that my chickens will absolutely be a part of my apocalyptic survival plans. If you're interested in getting chickens of your own, look for a local livestock feed store; this will be the easiest place to obtain chicks, feed, and other supplies you will need. I'd recommend building a coop on your own as opposed to buying one as their needs will depend on the environment your chickens will be inhabiting. Having a spare dog crate or something similar around for moving or keeping chickens is also advised, as this is a likely need whether cleaning the coop or keeping them safe from weather or predators.
Sources:
[1]<a href="http://www.mypetchicken.com/backyard-chickens/chicken-care/chapter-1-why-chickens.aspx">The My Pet Chicken Guide to Chicken Care</a>
[2]<a href="http://urbanchickens.org/chicken-illness-injury-and-disease">Chicken Illness, Injury and Disease</a>
[3]<a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Wash-a-Chicken">How to Wash a Chicken</a>
[4]<a href="http://www.lionsgrip.com/feedinstruc.html">Chicken Feed: Feeding Instructions</a>
[5]<a href="http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=G8350>Managing a Family Chicken Flock</a>
[6]<a href="http://www.wikihow.com/Breed-Chickens">How to Breed Chickens - wikiHow</a>